Photo: Stone wall along chemin
September 20, 2017 It was a very foggy cold morning. At the first village, Saint Martin le Vieux, I stopped to rest on the church steps. A woman came out and started her car, she saw me and asked me if I was cold and if I had camped outside. I told her yes, but that I was OK. She then went back to her house. I had walked about 300 meters out of town and on the road, when she drove up to me and offered me a bottle of hot coffee along with a couple of the wrapped biscuits that are usually served with espressos in bars. I thanked her for the very thoughtful gesture. She told me she had expected me to still be at the church steps when she returned from her house, but she knew where to find me. She then drove on to her appointment.
In the afternoon, the weather was much better. I met a father and daughter, Peter & Willema, from the Netherlands who were walking part of the Vezelay route. They were picking apples and pears that grew next to the road. After 25 km (444 km total) I reached Chalus and checked into a motel. It was a good day to rest and wash some clothes. I had pizza and beer at a nearby cafe.
Credencial stamp of gite:
Photo: Louise & Isabelle, Thivier
September 21, 2017 Because I had one more long day, I left early at 6:15 AM. It was dark for over an hour, but walking by headlamp was a nice experience. The stars were out and then I got to see the sunrise. I stopped at bakery in Firbeix for a coffee and croissant. The baker made an unusual looking black bread, like a baguette.
There were many pleasant forest trails. Along the way I met Peter and Willema again, as well as another Netherlands woman, Louise. I got to Thiviers about 2:30 PM, having walked about 32 km (476 km total). I checked email at the tourist office wifi and later found the B&B of Isabella. A little later Louise arrived. Isabella prepared us a dinner of chicken, quinoa, and pear pie. She was part of a choral group and had a concert that night. Isabella spoke good English and was a very pleasant host.
I was relieved to have gotten this far without an injury. There were times in the last week that I thought I would experience shin splints pain, but it did not happen. I don't expect to walk many more long days after this.
Credencial stamp of gite:
Photo: Path thru sunflower field
September 22, 2017 Isabella prepared a great breakfast of bread, homemade jam, cheese & coffee. Louise and I left about 9:15 AM. Today was a shorter day, only 21 km (497 km total). I saw a large group of teenagers walking the pilgrim route.
I got to Sorges before Louise, about 2:30 PM. There was a Belgian man, Renee, who was also waiting for the refuge to open at 4PM. Louise arrived a little later, as did Dominique. The teenagers also arrived with their teachers. They were walking parts of the chemin for a few days, but they were transported back to their homes for the night. The volunteer host prepared us a dinner of soup, peas and sausage.
Credencial stamp of gite:
Photo: Thivier church
Photo: Old convent in Thivier
Photo: Sorge church
Photo: Renee & Louise at Sorge Refuge
Map of camino segment
Map of camino trip
