Russia 1985 - Elbrus & Priute 11

Photo: Route up to Priute 11

Sep 13, 1985 The weather was still cloudy and rainy. Lonya and the Seattle women decided to go up to Refuge 11 (Priute Refuge) to attempt the climb of Elbrus. I went along out of curiosity with no intention to climb the mountain. A bus took us to the base of the mountain. Then we took two tram rides halfway up the mountain. From there it was a two hour walk through snow to get to the refuge. Near the refuge the winds were very strong and it was difficult for Yvonne and I to see our way on the steep icy slope. Lonya had gone back in the storm to find Helga and Susan. Helga arrived in the large building soon after us. Susan arrived much later, she had been throwing up on the hike to the refuge. The Priute doctor examined her but found nothing wrong.

Photo: Hut accommodations above ski lift

The refuge looked like an airplane hanger from the outside. It had three floors of rooms of bunk beds. Luckily we got a room near the kitchen, the only warm area in the refuge. The kitchen cooking facilities was a giant hot plate run by electricity from power lines strung to the valley below. Water was melted snow from just outside the kitchen. Sanitary conditions were questionable. The two toilets were only holes in the floor of a closet sized room at the end of dimly lit corridor. The refuge was a place to acclimatize to the altitude and to attempt climbs of the Elbrus summit from.

Sometimes tourist groups would spend a night in the refuge. A group of Czech's were there that night. They danced to poor recordings of Western rock and roll on their tape player in the crowded kitchen.

Photo: Yvonne & Lonya on trail to Priute 11

Sep 14, 1985 During the night, the storm had worsened. It was advised that everyone go down the mountain. All 20+ people packed up and hiked down the mountain to the trams. Visibility was poor and the snow was over a foot deep. Some of the Russian guides wore only tennis shoes on their feet. Most of the participants were very disappointed in the weather.

Back at the hotel, we had an evening meeting with the Russians to again discuss objectives and plans. Many still wanted to try Elbrus. The Russians planned a 7 day trip to Svanetia leaving the next day for those that were interested. Those turned out to be the Seattle women, Mike and Helga, and myself. The guides for the trip were Taya, Sasha, and Lonya.

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