Photo: Museum window in one of Cuenca's Hanging Houses
Feb 20, 1979 I rode out of Toledo at 8:30 AM. The first 15 miles were easy but then the hills started to get to me. Each time I struggled up a hill, I began to make plans to sell my bike. Relief came at Ocana, a town on the edge of a level plain that stretched to the horizon. After a total of 65 miles I found a $4 pension in the town of Taracon. The room was fairly good, but the owner was difficult to communicate with.
Feb 21, 1979 As I departed in the morning, I initially took a wrong turn and went mile out of my way. The biking got progressively tougher and I had to get off the bike and walk about mile to the top of Pto de Cabeja at 1,150 meters altitude. The payoff of going up was riding and coasting down the mountain roads, a great feeling. A long descent down a steep 12% grade into Cuenca completed a difficult 50 mile trip.
In Cuenca, I found another $4 pension, but with a much more friendly manager. Nearby, on the edge of this university city, was the Hanging Houses, a group of very old buildings suspended above steep cliffs. Located in one of the Houses was a contemporary art museum. The contrast of the old setting with the new art was striking.
I tried the two local specialties. Alaju is candy of walnuts, honey, and bread crumbs. Rosali is sweet wine of aguardiente spirit, coffee, cinnamon, orange peel essence, and sugar.
Photo: Spanish political activists
Feb 22, 1979 The first 15 miles were mostly uphill and initially I felt low on energy. After cresting the top of the final major hill, I felt much stronger. About 6 miles from my destination, Matilla del Polancar, a small car with loud speakers atop the roof stopped and the three occupants offered me a lift. The students indicated they were politicking for the Union of Central Democratician Party (UCD). I opted to finish the 50 mile ride.
When I reached Matilla del Palancar they were standing outside a bar, so I joined them for a few drinks. They gave me a political poster and although none of them knew English, they made me understand I was to carry the 3 by 4 poster on the front of my bike. Later, when I communicated that I had been through France, the trio leader took back the poster, tore it into pieces, and scattered it on the bar floor.
I found a room across the street from the bar for $4. A bath was an extra $1.
Feb 23, 1979 Today s ride of 50 miles to Requena took me over a very mountainous pass of 3 tunnels and spectacular scenery. I then descended to the towns of Uriel and Requena. My map showed a steep climb before Requena which did not materialize. I searched for a cheap pension, but the best I could find was an expensive $9 hotel room.
Photo: Ralph's bike loaded down
Feb 24, 1979 The final 50 miles to Valencia was completed shortly after noon. Orange groves abounded on the city outskirts. Roadside trucks sold 30 pound bags of oranges for 80 cents. I was given oranges for free.
I first visited the Valencia Tourist Bureau, where I encountered Mike, a tennis player from the Bahamas. He told me of a nearby pension that had rooms available. After checking in, an African who also stayed there, took Mike and I to a bar for a full lunch of macaroni, French fries and chicken. It cost $1.30. The Afrikan worked carving wooden elephants. I suspect he was an illegal immigrant.
Map of North Eastern Spain
