Photo: Japanese biker
Apr 4, 1979 I got an early start on a nice clear day. Soon after passing through Tripoli, and coasting down a mountain, I came upon a Japanese biker. He spoke broken English, but said he was a sailor and had biked from Alaska to Antartica. We continued on together making the final spectacular descent down the mountain near Argos on the coast. Outside Argos he stopped to wash his clothes and take a bath in an irrigation canal. Unfortunately, I lost him in the Argos traffic and never did see him again.
After 60 miles I reached Mikinas and visited the ancient ruins of Mycaine. At the youth hostel there, which doubled as a restaurant, I tried the popular Greek liquor, Ouzo. Ouzo is a clear sweet spirit made from anise and tastes like Black Jack gum.
Photo: Grainery at Mycenae
Apr 5, 1979 I got going at 8 AM riding uphill for the first 7 miles. At the first sizable town I bought bread, jelly, and salami. Later I sat at the roadside for breakfast. Passengers on a passing bus cheered me on as I ate my sandwich.
The road to Corinth was OK and there I found an alternative road that ran more or less next to the toll road. The route hugged the coastline and allowed a good view of sea and Athens in the distance. 12 miles from Athens the alternative road joined the toll road.
As I merged onto the toll road, I swerved around a truck parked on the shoulder. I hit some bad pavement causing me and the bike to fall and slide about 30 feet , ending up in the middle of the toll road. The only damage was a badly bent front rim. A Greek on a scooter stopped to check on me. He told me I was lucky to be alive as this is usually a very busy road, the main route to Athens.
When I reached Athens, after 80 miles, I broke another rear spoke. I think the heavy luggage I am carrying is the cause of the broken spokes. I found the Hotel Pellas which a friend had recommended. Although they were out of rooms, there were vacancies on the roof. The cost for a place on the roof was 60 drachmas ($1.60) per night and included hot showers.
Apr 6, 1979 From my spot on the roof I had a great view of the Acropolis. I went to pick up mail and had a note from Phyllis and Robin that they had left Greece about 10 days earlier. I was disappointed not to connect with them. When I was in Rome I had asked my parents to transfer money to me in Athens. I inquired at the American Express, but no money yet.
It was always great to get an airmail letter. I would keep them for awhile. But sometimes when I was in a restroom without toilet paper, I would read a letter one last time and then use it as a toilet paper substitute.
Ever since having my valuables stolen in Rome, I carried all my papers, money, etc in a leather pouch around my neck and under my clothes. The only times I reluctantly took it off was when I took a shower.
All the shops closed early, so I was not able to get my bike fixed today.
Apr 7, 1979 I found a bike mechanic to fix my bike, it cost about 400 drachma ($11), a bit high I thought. I was running low on money. I called home to ask about the money transfer. I also managed to get a refund on the other $100 of stolen travelers checks.
Apr 8, 1979 On this Sunday I went to the National Archeological Museum and the Acropolis. I have found that restaurants serve food cold and beer warm. Such dishes as spinach and cheese pies, nut honey pastries, and souvlaki were all delicious. I also tried Retsina wine, a national drink, but did not care for it.
Map of Greece & Yugoslavia
