Photo: Dongus Orun, pass is in center of photo
Sep 11, 1985 After the usual breakfast, time was spent packing for our trip. The others packed for the attempt of Elbrus. Two Americans and the West Germans decided to try a climb of one of the other mountains before attempting Elbrus. They were outfitted with radios so that their progress could be monitored. A couple from Salt Lake City had been missing their luggage ever since they had flown into Moscow. Without it they were unable to do any climbing. The Russian guides did offer them the use of available USSR equipment, but the fit of boots, etc. were not compatible.
Everyone had physicals performed by the Russian doctor. The West Germans were first. Waiting in line, Susan asked them what the exam consisted of. They told her they had to strip naked and do pushups in front of a room full of men. A shaken Susan fell for their joke. The exam was just a blood pressure check.
At 2:00 PM Lonya, the 3 Seattle women, and I ate an early lunch before departing. We took a bus about 3 miles to the head of the trail. Lonya siphoned gas from the bus into his fuel bottle. We asked him what he would do after 2 days when he ran out of fuel. He said that in Svanetia there were cars and trucks from which gas could be siphoned. I told him we would be arrested in the USA if we were caught siphoning gas.
Photo: Yvonne & Lonya, beginning of trek
Photo: Mountain stream
Photo: Group on Svanetia trek
The trail was a well defined foot path. Near the start we came upon a monument that bore the dates 1941-1945 and below that 1975. Later it was explained to me that the monument was to commemorate the 30 years since the Soviet Union had ceased to be occupied by a foreign power. During World War II Russian soldiers led a group of Russian women and children up the very steep trail we were walking, up and over the Becho Pass and into Georgia to escape the invading Germans. We saw monuments in other sites that had the same theme. Russians, particularly older Russians, stress that it is important to be strong because never again do they want their land to be occupied by foreigners.
The trail then became very steep and followed a mountain upstream into the ravine. After about an hour we came upon a herd of cattle in an open meadow attended by a man on horseback. Later we saw sheep and the stone huts in which the herders lived. We camped in an open valley near the herders huts. Near our camp was an elaborate monument to three climbers who had been killed in an avalanche at the site. Our camp area was very messy with garbage from previous campers.
We cooked supper and then went to bed soon after 7:30 PM. At about 8:00 PM it started raining with occasional lightening and it continued throughout the night. The tents were not totally waterproof.
Map of USSR
