Photo: Caucasus hotel
Sep 12, 1985 We were supposed to arise at 5:00 AM but with all the rain we stayed in the tent until 6:30. Lonya was cooking breakfast and singing in the rain. It was obvious that I would have to turn back because I didn't have rain gear. Susan wanted to continue despite the fact that much of the gear was soaked. Just a hundred feet above us the precipitation was snow rather than rain. After a prolonged discussion, Lonya wisely decided that we must return to the hotel.
As we left the camp we met two Russian guides who had come to pick up our crampons after we would have crossed the pass. We all walked back through the rain. Along the path we saw a cow that had died during the night, perhaps struck by lightning. We got back to the hotel by noon.
Photo: Caucasus hotel
Later that day the Americans and West Germans who had climbed a nearby mountain returned to the hotel. Both groups had spent a rough night camped in the snowstorm with little protection. Also a Mountain Travel group of very tired Americans returned from their Svanetia trip. Their last day hiking over the Dongus-Orun Pass was rough.
Lonya brewed tea for us in his room, then treated us to some vodka. He was careful to keep the bottle discreetly below the table. We had found that alcohol was a little difficult to come by, especially in the hotels. Our hotel 'bar' served only tea and apple juice. Earlier, in May of 1985, Gorbachov had introduced many measures that restricted alcohol availability and consumption.
Map of USSR
