South America 1992 - Bolivia

Photo: Ralph in front of Sucre theatre

May 11, 1992 My diarrea had gotten worse and the 24 hour ride on the bus back to La Paz, without a toilet, was misery. Checked into the Max Paredes Hotel. I decided I better get over the runs. I drank a lot and ate very little. I did walk to the American Consulate to ask about travel alerts in Peru. Told not a problem, but watch for thieves. The hotel seemed very cold and I decided to go to Sorata, a town in the Yungas and close to some big mountains.

Photo: Sorata

May 13, 1992 I took the Sorata bus. About an hour from Sorata the bus and other traffic was stopped by a roadblock. Residents in a college town had put stones across the road to protest some injustice to their teachers. We were delayed for 2 or 3 hours, and then allowed to pass.

At noon we got to Sorata and I checked into the Hotel Copacabana, a great little place run by an eccentric German man. The climate was warm and pleasant, and the area was very beautiful. Poinsettas grew everywhere and palm trees graced the main plaza.

Photo: Cliffs near Sorata

May 14, 1992 Feeling better, I had a great bowl of hot muesli for breakfast. A Swiss couple and I walked to the cave of San Pablo. The guide took 2 kerosene soaked torches and led us down into the dirty and dark cave. We soon reached the first of two underground lakes, which is normally the end of the tour. The guide and Swiss couple spoke awhile and then he led us on a trail that was above the lake. The footing was very slippery and limited. A slip would have meant a 20-40 foot plunge into the lake.

We went over both lakes, and the second included a roped descent, down a steep dropoff. When we were safely back I found out that this was the first time the guide had hiked over the lakes. A few years ago a pair of Japanese hiked into the cave, and were never seen again.

Photo: Illampu in background

Photo: Sorata main square

Photo: Mountains above Sorata

Map of South America Trip